wine tour
Albania has one of the oldest wine-growing traditions in the Mediterranean, dating back more than 3000 yearsand comparable to that of the Greeks. However, under Ottoman rule, winegrowing was limited to areas with a predominantly Christian population and it was not until Albanian independence (1912) that it became more important again.
Unfortunately, phylloxera and then the communist regime quickly put an end to the brief revival. Cheap wines for export or tourism were produced to a very limited extent on state land - which travelers to the Balkans were happy avoid in favour of beer, water or raki - and more emphasis was placed on the production of grapes and raki. The latter is much cheaper to produce, which you can still see in the stores today if you buy a perfectly good raki and compare the price with that of an equally good bottle of wine. Furthermore, distilling hard liquor is also less technically demanding than the production of high-quality wines, which not only requires experience and skill, but also investment in suitable barrels, storage facilities and appropriate technology. It is not for nothing that almost everyone here who does a bit of farming distils his own, thoroughly drinkable raki.
After the collapse of the socialist regime, winegrowing had actually arrived at zero. Farmers claimed the state vineyards as grazing land for their herds, raki could and still can be made from all other types of fruit and foreign wines, especially from Italy, were no longer in short supply. A habit that has remained, if you look at the overwhelming range of predominantly Italian wines and raki varieties made from peach, pear, quince, pomegranate, blackberry or juniper - to name just a few of the common varieties.
Nevertheless, some families have returned to tradition, sent their sons to Italy to train with the winegrowers, and over the last 30 years more and more small wineries and cellars have been established, and some of them have already attracted international attention.
I would like to introduce three of them from our local area.
Kantina Belba
With the vineyards in Golem and their winery and excellent restaurant in Kavaje, they are within striking distance and well worth a visit with wine tasting and food!
Even though the Papaz (one third each of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and the autochthonous Kabjuro grape and rewarded with a silver medal) is the flagship, my personal favorite is the Merlot. Both wines for the grand entrance!
But the Shesh i Zi (red) and the Shesh i Bardhe (white) are also excellent companions for a dinner or a nice evening and impress with the taste of the local grape.
Kokomani Winery
Located in the hills between Durres and Tirana, the restaurant offers a beautiful view and a lovely rustic ambience for a traditional lunch or dinner or a wine tasting with delicious antipasti.
The range of wines produced is comparatively small and they do not reach the refinement of Kantina Belba, but they are consistently of high quality and offer a very good value for money.
Fani Winery
I was also impressed by the wines from the Fani winery in Berat, which is one of the most beautiful cities in Albania and therefore an absolute “must see” during a vacation.
Berat is also one of the most important wine regions in the country and several wineries are located here.
So why not combine sightseeing with the enjoyment of excellent wines here!